Back in 2014, I was working in Cyprus with the United Nations. Twelve members of An Garda Siochana make this trip every year as part of the Irish commitment to the peace keeping effort in that part of the world and I was lucky enough to be one of those that year.
In 1974, Turkey invaded Cyprus and there was a bloody conflict. The United Nations were sent in to create a barrier between the two sides and maintain the peace. That barrier still exists today, and it’s known as the Buffer Zone.
Without going into too much detail and boring you to death, the Buffer Zone is basically a strip of no-mans-land that runs from the east to the west of the country to separate the Greek Cypriots in the south from the Turkish Cypriots in the north. It’s mostly dusty, desert type terrain and while some farming does go on there, access to that whole area is very much restricted.
Part of my role was to act as a liaison person between the UN military component and the Greek Cypriot and the Turkish Cypriot authorities such as the police and the local councils or municipalities. Anyone wishing to carry out any business within the Buffer Zone must have permission or permits from the UN so there was regular interaction between us all.
It was in this capacity that I came to meet a man by the name of Tassos Hadjilefteris in Dherynia which is situated near the Buffer Zone. He was the equivalent of the town manager and he looked after the affairs of the municipality or council.
We met regularly and it was during one of these meetings that Tassos introduced me to a lady with a new born baby who wanted the baby baptised in a small little chapel in the Buffer Zone. The chapel is called Agia Marina and this lady’s grandmother and her mother were both baptised there, and she wanted her little girl to follow suit.
When I say it’s a small chapel, I mean small. It dates back to the 12th century and it’s dedicated to Saint Marina who is thought to be the guardian of children. Twenty people would fill it but it’s a lovely little place in the middle of nowhere.
In the basement of the chapel there is a Holy Water Spring which was once used by mothers of sick children to cure them and outside, next to the church, there is a small tree with lots of pieces of baby clothes attached to the branches. If someone has a sick child, they sneak in there and tie an item of clothing to the tree and ask Saint Marina to make them better.
Tassos and I both wanted this Baptism to happen and once the proposal was received by the powers that be in the UN, they quickly agreed to pursue it, but it also had to be agreed by the authorities on both sides of the Buffer Zone. In fairness to all involved, it was agreed without too much fuss but there were certain restrictions.
There are armed soldiers in lookout posts on the northern side of the Buffer Zone and there are signs indicating that certain areas are protected by land mines, so it is important to ensure that any civilian activity is properly marshalled.
Only a certain number of people could attend the ceremony and a limited number of cars were allowed into the Buffer Zone to get to the church and the registration numbers of those cars and details of the occupants had to be made available in advance of the event.
The rest had to park outside the Buffer Zone and walk to the church. This presented a difficulty for the older people because it was a good walk in rough terrain in the heat of the May sun, so the UN organised a mini bus to collect these people and deliver them to and from the church.
It was an early start on the morning of the baptism as a few volunteers were authorised to enter the Buffer Zone at 6.30am to prepare the chapel. Tables and chairs were set up outside where light refreshments would be served afterwards.
It was a long, hot day, but everything went according to plan. The invited guests adjourned to a local hall after the ceremony where a proper celebration took place. The parents of the child were delighted with their day and they were very grateful. I was happy to have played a small part in making it happen for the family.
A few weeks ago, while I was in Cyprus, I was contacted by Tassos. We have kept in touch over the years and we are both retired now. He invited me to his house in Dherynia for a coffee and it was lovely to meet him again for a catch up.
When I left Tassos, I called to a pharmacy in Dherynia on the way home. I know the owner and I wanted to say hello. When I went in, he was busy with one of his staff, but I told another staff member that I would wait until he was free.
He soon appeared and asked me how he could help me. I told him that I was just calling to say hello, but it was obvious that he had no idea who I was. Then his eyes widened as it began to dawn on him. He grabbed my hand. He was genuinely happy to see me and couldn’t wait to show me a picture of his daughter who was baptised in the Agia Marina chapel five years previously.
I am regularly asked what it is that I love about Cyprus. Well, it’s that kind of thing.